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Emergency Commissions

Thu Sep 7, 2017, 3:09 AM

I really don’t like talking about personal issues but my financial situation right now is so crap that I’m going to post this. In my country, if you want to be self-employed, you’ve got to pay about 500PLN every month for the first two years - that’s on “discount” - and two years after registration it goes up to almost 1200PLN monthly, which is way more than I can afford. To give you perspective, minimum wage here is 1459PLN monthly this year, which is a bit more than 400USD. (And good luck making a living with that).

So. In October, my two years threshold is up. I’ll be closing my self-employment business before then, but I need to pay the obligatory monthly shit before I do that, and I have some of it overdue from July and August and after summing up all my savings (whooping 500PLN, yay), I’m still 800PLN short. That is almost 230USD.

As such, I’m making those emergency commissions here. 
(I also have full illustration commission info here)


The payment is via paypal only (unless you live in Poland, then it can also be a direct bank transfer). 

Additional characters are, per 1 character: +6USD on portraits, +15USD on waist-up, +20USD on full-body.

Simple background (such as the starry sky behind the torso/waist-up dude) or the swirly things behind the orange one are +3USD on portraits, +6USD on waist-up, and +10USD on full-body.

Since those are painted/drawn on paper, I can also send them via mail. Details for that are discussed separately.

I’d appreciate very much if you could at least spread the word. Thank you!


Stayin' alive, stayin' alive

Tue Dec 6, 2016, 9:22 AM
More or less. Well. Hello! It's been a while. I've been so buried under work that I barely have any free time left to spend online, and when I do, I really prefer to just talk to my friends and watch something instead of producing myself here or there. That being said, it's way easier to catch me on my tumblr these days. And with the tumblr new(ish) IM system, you can also talk to me there (I'm not a fabulous conversation partner and I swear a lot, though, you've been warned).

I would like to thank you all for the birthday wishes, too. I still keep smiling about them, and you know, you did a better job than some of my family members with it who totally didn't bother saying anything. Or didn't bother remembering to begin with. So kudos to you. Really. :heart:

Apart from working on my manga (I can make that official, I am working on a big thing these days), I've been doing commissions, studying Japanese hard (I'm on my second semester now), took TOEIC last month (and had the highest score in the entire city, take that), fucked up with taxes in August big time (I still want to hide under my desk and never crawl out when I think about it), and generally I've been trying to keep myself alive. I also have a bunch of notes to answer that I'm 100% embarrassed to even open because it's been weeks/months. You had one job, me. One job.

Speaking of jobs, I almost got a job as a graphic designer in a network technologies company, but eventually it was given to that company's main book accountant's mediocre cousin, I'm still pretty pissed. It's been 3 months, and boy, I hope that rich fuckboy who doesn't even need that job will get kicked out. I could've lived in my own flat by now. Alas, I'm not, and I'm seriously bitter about it.

Well. I'll be releasing a new artbook in early 2017, so I hope those of you who voted in my poll a couple of weeks ago will still stick around and support me with it. It's going to be a collection of my works from 2013 onwards, with some commentary, some WIP shots, some photos of my workspace, and some sketches that I haven't shown anywhere.

I would also very very very very very very much appreciate if you could commission me some time, it would be of great help. Like, Mount Everest kind of great.

I hope that you've been doing well and I'll do my best to appear around here more often.

Day 8221: MUCC concert

Wed May 27, 2015, 3:08 PM
I considered it awesome enough to actually write a personal journal that is not "please help me". Now, that's been a while. I will not bore you with many words, I'll just sum it up: I went to the first concert in my life, performed by a band that has been my top favourite for the longest time, comparing to the others. I was standing right next to the stage, and they were performing less than 2 meters from me. And they were beyond fabulous.

Untitled by STelari

In case you were wondering - that was, in fact, the 8221st day of my life.



So much to assume

Wed Jun 18, 2014, 6:07 AM
This is nothing new. I've been observing it for quite a long time in various places, including my personal surroundings. I work with traditional media and take care of traditional art category on dA. People, basing on these two facts, very often assume that I dislike digital art, fan art or manga, or treat them as inferior, or name it whatever else that way. I receive comments that place traditional art (as in, not only the dA category, but generally) above any other types of art, with the commenter usually expecting me to agree - but not because they treat their opinion as the "right" one, which is what you'd mostly expect, but because they think they are speaking about my opinion, somewhat more than theirs.

And that is, my fellow deviants, something I extremely despise of. It's only yet to be decided if it's the "anything other than traditional is inferior" part or the "this surely must be my opinion" assumption that puts me off more.

Let's go back to that countdown with "I do traditional art and I take care of trad art category". Let's add to it - I feature anything I find in my (-404) Deviant Found posts, which often consist of everything except traditional. I run 3 sketchbooks at once and one of them I fill only with fan arts - what's more funny, it's 100% of fan arts of manga and anime stories. So far. I think of drawing some angsty Winter Soldiers this or next week. And you don't have to go further than to my tumblr to see most of them. I could go on and mention more things, but I suppose I've made my point already.

You need skills to create any kind of art no matter the chosen media. Surely, there's a ton of things you can't do with traditional, like no ctrl+z. Currently there are things you can't do with digital like you could do traditionally (currently, since it's only a matter of time before it gets possible, I have no doubts here). That's irrelevant. Skills are skills. There's nothing to magically solve your problems with lack of knowledge about anatomy, composition or perspective. Painting or drawing digitally requires practise and getting used to the media just like it goes with traditional, except your hands won't get dirty (I'm not going to imagine your digital workspace if you actually do get your hands dirty).

As for hating fan arts and manga... like anything popular, it gathers more haters because you'd have to try really hard to miss it. Because lots of people have the opportunity to actually notice it. Take any unknown type of art and make it popular and I assure you it'll have a bag of haters that's bigger on the inside. I stress the words "type of art" here, because there's a huge amount of things that don't go that way and I'm not talking about them in this journal.

Plus, my favourite point about fan arts and traditional art... try to count how many mythology and religious fan arts is a part of art history.

Do I hate popular things? I used to, some of them, when I was a 15-years-old brat. Hilarious really. Fortunately, I grew a wee bit smarter. And now, why hating them is senseless...

Things like "it's so popular and my stuff isn't", or "I think this book/movie/whatever is poo", or "my skills are better than this popular artist's" and their variations are all what's pinned to this matter. And I mean, all. We're not talking copied/stolen/cheated works here.

Who are you to dictate people what should they like? Oh, but perhaps it'd be enough if it was just a small bit less liked? All right then, pick as many people as you deem enough and tell each single person: "from now on you can't like this, because I think it's bad". How does that sound? Fine? No. What a surprise.

This applies to everything I mentioned in this journal: fan arts, digital, manga, add anything you want. No one can tell you to like or dislike anything just like you have no right to force your opinions on the others. Opinions are not facts. People draw what they draw because they like it and/or get paid for it. Whatever it is, it gives them positive effects. Often very serious ones. Lots of them use art to help themselves during bad days, sometimes really bad days, or weeks, or months. I'm no exception. And you can't always know if it's the case.

All these popular artists weren't popular once. They were unknown, they had everything to improve (and they still do improve their skills) and in most cases they also didn't like things that were popular. They succeeded and achieved some of their goals. Is it a reason to hate?

There are tons of way more important things to do than wasting your time on bringing any type of art down - and through this, another person - so just let them be. They make you no harm and if you don't like what you see, simply go staring at something that you consider nice. And don't hesitate to inform the artist that you like it.

So no, I don't think traditional art stands above anything else and I strongly dislike people who desperately pin their opinions regarding this on me.

Commissions are [OPEN]

Wed Aug 21, 2013, 11:50 PM
Payment via PayPal only (bank transfer if you live in Poland).
The sizes given can differ by up to 3 cm.
The prices are approximate and can differ depending on the commission details.
Additional costs will be added if you wish to receive the original picture via mail (30% + shipping).
Please contact me via e-mail.
Really, please do not send me a note or a comment. Only email.

How does it look like: first we discuss the subject, size, technique, possible shipping. Any reference pictures for specific characters/locations are quite welcomed. Then I prepare the concept sketch. Once it's adjusted to your requirements, you'll need to send the payment (to a PayPal invoice that I'll send to you), and then I get to work on the final picture. If you chose for it to be shipped, I'll notify you after it's sent and give you the tracking number. If you choose to resign from the commission after or during the concept sketch stage, the costs for that are between 10-30 USD, depending on the size and detail.

Other picture sizes and media can be discussed.

The prices below are for non-commercial, private collection type commissions only. I retain the copyrights. Commissioned pictures may be later assembled into printed artbooks, with proper credit given to the purchaser.

You can buy my drawings, prints, sketchbooks, jewellery, clothing and others in my Etsy Shop.
You can also get my prints on various things at my society6.


Starlake by STelariWho would have thought by STelariWhere the small cats hop by STelari

A5 (15 x 21 cm)


Graphite: 100 USD
Ink: 120 USD
Ink + watercolour/gouache: 160 USD
Graphite + watercolour/gouache: 180 USD
Other media can be discussed

-------------------------

The Builder by STelariIt all starts with one by STelariMagic is waiting ahead by STelari

A4 (21 x 29 cm)


Graphite: 140 USD
Ink: 150 USD
Ink + watercolour/gouache: 230 USD
Graphite + watercolour/gouache: 240 USD
Other media can be discussed

-------------------------

To you, 100 years from now by STelariFear me by STelariThe tunnel by STelari

A3 (30 x 42 cm)


Graphite: 295 USD
Ink: 330 USD
Ink + watercolour/gouache: 420 USD
Graphite + watercolour/gouache: 440 USD
Other media can be discussed


Naalbinding

Thu Dec 20, 2012, 12:53 PM
0 by STelari

Guess: about which element from the picture above will be this article about?


About socks. And to be more precise -- about one really old technique of making them, older than crocheting and much older than knitting. Previously, you could read a simple tutorial about how to make a viking dress, and this little thing is strongly connected to the mentioned one. I'd not imagine a lack of these socks when some of the history reenactment events are early in April or in October, or exactly in winter. (Of course, the ones from the photo above are my summer socks, phew. You'll see my winter ones in the end.)

Besides being accurate historically and useful for history reenactment, I'm sure that you can admit how waaarm and comfortable can woolen socks be. There's nothing better to warm up your toes after you arrive home in December, all cold and tired... maybe except a nice bath, but noone says that you can't wear socks afterwards.

Naalbinding, or Naalebinding, or Nålebinding, is a technique very similiar to crocheting; it remids also of weaving fishing nets. You can say that Naalbinding is a precursor of crocheting. The two main diffrences between these two techniques are the timelines when they were the most popular - Naalbinding was the most popular until knitting and crocheting came in the late Medieval Ages; the other huge diffrence is that unlike in crocheting, you can't undo what you've already done so easily.

Nowadays, Naalbiding is mostly used in Scandinavia, where its name comes from. It's also a good time to write about it, when you can find it the most useful, isn't it? (:


1 by STelari

What do we need?


Quite a simple thing. We need a yarn, a needle and scissors. And time. Consider the yarn: for my viking reenactment, I used woolen ones, but you must remember that wool has its own rights to shrink when washed. So if you don't need it to be uber-true, just take some acrylic yarn, it's good as well.

Needle. A big one. And blunt. That would be all. My needle is made of bone, I bought it from UEdkaFShopie's sister a couple of years ago. It's 9 cm long and 7mm wide in its widest part. There are also wooden, plastic and metal needles, and you can even made one on your own, for example from carp's fish-bone (though it may be flimsy).


What do we do?


I'll mention here the simplest and the easiest to understand way, but believe me, there are many others... just not so uncomplicated.

First, cut off at least 1 meter of the yarn. Usually I cut off 1,5 - 2 meters. Unlike in crocheting or knitting, you'll have use cut pieces and tie new ones when the current one ends. Now, make a base loop like in the picture belw. A small one, I made it a bit bigger just for this tutorial, I usually make a half of its size. Leave behind about 2-3 cm, so it wouldn't just slip off.

Time to start making the "true" loops! Take a close look at the picture on the right.
Move your needle through the base loop - can be from below, can be from above, find the way that is more comfortable for you. After you pull some of the thread , you'll notice another loop making. Move needle through it to make a formation like in the photo and pull. Not too tight - otherwise you won't be able to make further rows.

2 by STelari

Now, just keep repeating making the same loops until you form a circle. Then you must think and plan your next moves - depending on what do you want to achieve, you'll have to form diffrent shapes: therefore you'll have to add diffrent amount of loops in diffrent places. It's good to check if you're going in the right way, so when you're for example making a sock, just try it on as often as you need (even if you've got less than to cover your toes).

When you finish making the first row of loops, start making the second row. Unlike with the first row, now you'll have to loop the thread around the loops from the first row. Don't make just one new loop on one older loop, unless you want to get a finger part for a glove.

4 by STelari

When making a sock, I usually add 2-3 loops for one old loop at the beginning, until I cover the width of my foot. Then I add a couple of extra rows before I start the 1:1 part to cover the metatarsus. When making the heel part, first I make an extra patch by making loops on a 3/5 of the already made pouch, simply by going there and back again. When it covers the heel, I go back to making loops all around.

A cap: it's the easiest thing to make. I'd consider making it before getting to socks. Remember only to add more loops with each row and some 1:1 in the end, so you'd not finish up with a napkin.

Mittens: I start with making a separate part for the thumbs. After I make enough to cover the thumb, I just leave it and make the parts for the whole palm. In accurate moment I attach the thumb and make further loops so on. Mittens are easier than socks, a bit harder than a cap, but not much.

5 by STelari

Mittens, winter socks (too big!) and the first socks I've ever made. They were worn so many times that they started felting up.

How to make a viking dress

Sat Dec 15, 2012, 5:46 AM

I used to be a part of one history reenactment group some time ago. Such groups basically reconstruct elements of daily life of people from a selected time period; my group was interested in early Middle Ages, from the 8th to the 11th century, from the Eastern and Northern Europe. Personally, I used to reconstruct a viking woman from today's Sweden areas. Most of you will be shocked, but vikings were not half-naked barbarians with horned helmets. They had no horned helmets. Really.

Anyway, my favourite part of reenactment has always been all the suit making. Buing materials, planning, cutting, sewing (hand sewing!), embroidering. Then, wearing. Generally, viking clothes are very easy to make, though I admit that the materials aren't the cheapest, if you want to make it as much accurate historically as you can. 

I've prepared a simple tutorial about how to make a typical viking dress. As I've said, it's very easy to make, but it takes time, when you don't use a sewing machine. Up to 4-5 days. What do we need? I'll write about the historically accurate stuff.


Ingredients by STelari
(Click on the picture to view it full sized and to see descriptions)

Cloth: at least 150x300cm. I used 150x700cm only once and it's really the top border. Really. You can choose between linen, wool (100% wool, no polyester!) and silk. Silk is awfully expensive and not so easy to get, therefore I'd recommend either wool or linen. Colours... well, I think you can imagine that medieval people didn't know how to make the eye-killing cyan-green-vivid-whatever dyes. So rather calm colours. Browns, greens, greys. Red, blue and purple are the extremely expensive medieval colours. Now, let's make it more funny – one of the most common dye colour was pink... It was one of the easiest to receive.

Threads: linen, woolen or silk. No cotton. Cotton is historically accurate in the Middle Ages period  reenactment, of course, but only if you reconstruct American history...

We'll also need scisors (oh really?), needle and a measure. And some free space on the floor. Pins would be nice, too, but not necessary.

Pattern - feel free to print by STelari
I've prepared a nice printable version, click to view full size and the description.

As you can see, it couldn't be more simple. Remember that you need to adjust the lenghts to your body's shape. I'm not a tall person, so these measurements are just fine for me (if you're around 1m60, at least half of your measuring is done now). More or less – measure yourself from your shoulders below (not from your head; some help would be nice) and add 10-15 cm. Measure around your chest (not around the waist, we've got leather belts for these things!) and add 10 cm to each side of the back and front dress parts. Measure arms and add 10 cm, measure around arms (not forearms) and add 15 cm at least. Remember, it's better to add too much and then remove some than add too little and waste the cloth.

At the picture above I've also drawn the way all the parts should be put together. And that would be almost all... When sewing in the triangle skirt parts, it's better to begin from the top and go down from one side and then start over for the 2nd side. Don't worry when you'll see a lot of cloth at the bottom sticking below the edge of front or back body dress parts - it's expected and you'll just remove the extras later. You'll be probably able to sew a small bag out of them.

Stichtes. I've drawn my two favourite ones in the picture again, but I use them only for visible places, for example around edges or to decorate the visible parts of stitches around skirts. But when it comes to sew all the parts together, use whatever stich type you want and whatever you feel comfortable with - I don't recommend these two shown, as they take really a lot of time to make, especially the crossing one.


Viking woman by weavedmagicBlue and brown Viking dress by LaeradViking Embroidery by Erianrhodviking frouwe by cornum
Hervor new costume by VendelRus10th c. Norse Women's outfit by silverstahthe Viking by Narenlith


An easy wire-wrapping tutorial

Thu Dec 6, 2012, 1:10 AM
When it comes to making jewerly, especially silver, wire-wrapping technique is one of the nicest consider the availability and costs of the materials (it definitely beats Art Clay Silver at these points). But before you get silver wire and start making such fabulous pieces like the ones I've featured in the end, it's good to take your first steps using something cheaper - and here comes the copper wire - and making something simpler, to get used to this lovely technique.

This tutorial I originally posted on my blog a couple of months ago and I thought about sharing it also here.

6 by STelari
This is what we're planning to get.


First of all, we need stones - the more regular they are, the better. No need to think about any super duper expensive ones now (: I collected most of them in my garden, there are also parts of my old broken earrings and a small glass ball. We also need sharp pincers, round pincers and a wire, 0.6mm or thicker, 40cm at least. Copper wire is quite cheap and it suits this exercise well.


1 by STelari

Take the wire, leave behind about 4-5cm and round the stone with it, tightly. Leave the 4-5cm again and cut the whole part off, like in the picture below. Now you know what length  ou need, more or less 14-15 cm, depends on the stone. Use this piece of wire as a measure to cut more of them. Here I use 4, but it can be 2,3,5...

Gather them all together, find the middle and wrap the wire around, making the spiral not longer than 1cm. You don't need to cut off the wire before wrapping it, it would be a waste if you cut a too long piece.

2 by STelari 3 by STelari

Take the wires and wrap them around the stone, just like you did in the first step. Bend them to make a "neck" like in the picture below, twist them gently together as close to the stone as you can and save the connection with another spiral.

4 by STelari

Leave at least 2 wires to make the loop and do what you want with the rest - wrap them around, make swirls, spirals, there are many possibilites, as you could see in the first photo. Then, take at least one wire and bend it like in the picture - use either your fingers or the round pincers. Wrap around it the last free wires and save the ends of the loop, e.g. by swirling them, so it won't slip out. And that's it! Now you can make 15 such pendants and produce a whole necklase, if you add also some beads.

5 by STelari


And now, take a look at these brilliant wire-wrapping jewerly pieces.


Nasturtium 2 by BartoszCibad'Oro - bracelet by BartoszCibaBRANSOLETA 'GRANDISSIMA' by bizuteria-bizu4u
Paua bracelets by TriquetraZoneFishes... by PilaresABERDEEN by artpoppy
Wire earrings by YulienDeathWire-wrapped, large Swarovski necklace by AnnaMroczekAOROTH by LUNARIEEN