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Whatever title comes here

Mon Dec 11, 2017, 5:45 PM
It's close to 3AM here and I probably shouldn't write this journal right now, and I'll probably delete it by the morning (morning is when I wake up, regardless of the time of day) and kick my past over-caffeinated self square in the ass. To be frank, I straight up hate disclosing any even slightly personal matters online, but I'd guess that some stuff I'll talk about is relevant to my own psychical well-being, so I might just give it a shot. This has been a fairly shitty year anyway (fourth in a row? I should put that on my CV).

File #1. Thank you so much for the birthday wishes. It never fails to make me smile, in the 9 years I've been on dA (how the fuck it's been so long already?). Also thanks for the points, although I didn't know what to do with them other than to donate them to people who collect them for premium memberships. 

File #2. Pretty obvious, but I don't spend much time on here any more. It's a combination of a burn-out after being ridiculously active everywhere around here for so long, including being a volunteer for 2 and a half year, and the changes to the website itself that have cut 75% of what I've been enjoying here the most. And also the fact that the submitting system pisses me off, compared to how fast and simple it is on tumblr or twitter... okay, that wasn't my intention to bitch about this here now. Or ever. I just stick elsewhere and avoid concerning myself about this.

File #3. So regarding elsewhere, this is my tumblr, and this is my twitter. I pretty much post the same things on both of those portals, but twitter obviously has a letter limit, plus I use it for training my Japanese. Which is around below 1st grade primary school.

File over 9000. I'm agender. You don't have to understand it, if you don't want to. You can ask about it whatever you want to know, as long as you aren't rude about it. The pronouns I prefer are the neutral they/them and the only thing I ask for is that you respect it. It's not like it's a harm to any of you anyway. I'm really, really tired of people referring to me as to a woman or a man. I've been tired of it for years. Sure, I didn't expect anyone would've known, but I also kept shut up about it because I didn't want to deal with pieces of shit who would have a good laugh at me. "Hurr durr that gender gender tumblr bullshit, you have gender in your pants". Frankly, I couldn't care less about anyone's stance on gender identities. I've had all the remaining fucks kicked out of me by people's shitty attitudes already. I'm so, so tired.

Oh, yeah. I like women only, by the way. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

That's all. I hope 2017 has been better for you than for me and that the rest of it will be good, and that 2018 will finally knock down all that crap. 

Emergency Commissions

Thu Sep 7, 2017, 3:09 AM

I really don’t like talking about personal issues but my financial situation right now is so crap that I’m going to post this. In my country, if you want to be self-employed, you’ve got to pay about 500PLN every month for the first two years - that’s on “discount” - and two years after registration it goes up to almost 1200PLN monthly, which is way more than I can afford. To give you perspective, minimum wage here is 1459PLN monthly this year, which is a bit more than 400USD. (And good luck making a living with that).

So. In October, my two years threshold is up. I’ll be closing my self-employment business before then, but I need to pay the obligatory monthly shit before I do that, and I have some of it overdue from July and August and after summing up all my savings (whooping 500PLN, yay), I’m still 800PLN short. That is almost 230USD.

As such, I’m making those emergency commissions here. 
(I also have full illustration commission info here)

The payment is via paypal only (unless you live in Poland, then it can also be a direct bank transfer). 

Additional characters are, per 1 character: +6USD on portraits, +15USD on waist-up, +20USD on full-body.

Simple background (such as the starry sky behind the torso/waist-up dude) or the swirly things behind the orange one are +3USD on portraits, +6USD on waist-up, and +10USD on full-body.

Since those are painted/drawn on paper, I can also send them via mail. Details for that are discussed separately.

I’d appreciate very much if you could at least spread the word. Thank you!

Day 8221: MUCC concert

Wed May 27, 2015, 3:08 PM
I considered it awesome enough to actually write a personal journal that is not "please help me". Now, that's been a while. I will not bore you with many words, I'll just sum it up: I went to the first concert in my life, performed by a band that has been my top favourite for the longest time, comparing to the others. I was standing right next to the stage, and they were performing less than 2 meters from me. And they were beyond fabulous.

Untitled by STelari

In case you were wondering - that was, in fact, the 8221st day of my life.

Commissions are [OPEN]

Wed Aug 21, 2013, 11:50 PM
Payment via PayPal only (bank transfer if you live in Poland).
The sizes given can differ by up to 3 cm.
The prices are approximate and can differ depending on the commission details.
Additional costs will be added if you wish to receive the original picture via mail (30% + shipping).
Please contact me via e-mail.
Really, please do not send me a note or a comment. Only email.

How does it look like: first we discuss the subject, size, technique, possible shipping. Any reference pictures for specific characters/locations are quite welcomed. Then I prepare the concept sketch. Once it's adjusted to your requirements, you'll need to send the payment (to a PayPal invoice that I'll send to you), and then I get to work on the final picture. If you chose for it to be shipped, I'll notify you after it's sent and give you the tracking number. If you choose to resign from the commission after or during the concept sketch stage, the costs for that are between 10-30 USD, depending on the size and detail.

Other picture sizes and media can be discussed.

The prices below are for non-commercial, private collection type commissions only. I retain the copyrights. Commissioned pictures may be later assembled into printed artbooks, with proper credit given to the purchaser.

You can buy my drawings, prints, sketchbooks, bookmarks etc. in my Etsy Shop.
You can also get my prints on various things at my society6.

Starlake by STelariWho would have thought by STelariWhere the small cats hop by STelari

A5 (15 x 21 cm)

Graphite: 100 USD
Ink: 120 USD
Ink + watercolour/gouache: 160 USD
Graphite + watercolour/gouache: 180 USD
Other media can be discussed


The Builder by STelariIt all starts with one by STelariMagic is waiting ahead by STelari

A4 (21 x 29 cm)

Graphite: 140 USD
Ink: 150 USD
Ink + watercolour/gouache: 230 USD
Graphite + watercolour/gouache: 240 USD
Other media can be discussed


To you, 100 years from now by STelariFear me by STelariThe tunnel by STelari

A3 (30 x 42 cm)

Graphite: 295 USD
Ink: 330 USD
Ink + watercolour/gouache: 420 USD
Graphite + watercolour/gouache: 440 USD
Other media can be discussed

How to make a viking dress

Sat Dec 15, 2012, 5:46 AM

I used to be a part of one history reenactment group some time ago. Such groups basically reconstruct elements of daily life of people from a selected time period; my group was interested in early Middle Ages, from the 8th to the 11th century, from the Eastern and Northern Europe. Personally, I used to reconstruct a viking woman from today's Sweden areas. Most of you will be shocked, but vikings were not half-naked barbarians with horned helmets. They had no horned helmets. Really.

Anyway, my favourite part of reenactment has always been all the suit making. Buing materials, planning, cutting, sewing (hand sewing!), embroidering. Then, wearing. Generally, viking clothes are very easy to make, though I admit that the materials aren't the cheapest, if you want to make it as much accurate historically as you can. 

I've prepared a simple tutorial about how to make a typical viking dress. As I've said, it's very easy to make, but it takes time, when you don't use a sewing machine. Up to 4-5 days. What do we need? I'll write about the historically accurate stuff.

Ingredients by STelari
(Click on the picture to view it full sized and to see descriptions)

Cloth: at least 150x300cm. I used 150x700cm only once and it's really the top border. Really. You can choose between linen, wool (100% wool, no polyester!) and silk. Silk is awfully expensive and not so easy to get, therefore I'd recommend either wool or linen. Colours... well, I think you can imagine that medieval people didn't know how to make the eye-killing cyan-green-vivid-whatever dyes. So rather calm colours. Browns, greens, greys. Red, blue and purple are the extremely expensive medieval colours. Now, let's make it more funny – one of the most common dye colour was pink... It was one of the easiest to receive.

Threads: linen, woolen or silk. No cotton. Cotton is historically accurate in the Middle Ages period  reenactment, of course, but only if you reconstruct American history...

We'll also need scisors (oh really?), needle and a measure. And some free space on the floor. Pins would be nice, too, but not necessary.

Pattern - feel free to print by STelari
I've prepared a nice printable version, click to view full size and the description.

As you can see, it couldn't be more simple. Remember that you need to adjust the lenghts to your body's shape. I'm not a tall person, so these measurements are just fine for me (if you're around 1m60, at least half of your measuring is done now). More or less – measure yourself from your shoulders below (not from your head; some help would be nice) and add 10-15 cm. Measure around your chest (not around the waist, we've got leather belts for these things!) and add 10 cm to each side of the back and front dress parts. Measure arms and add 10 cm, measure around arms (not forearms) and add 15 cm at least. Remember, it's better to add too much and then remove some than add too little and waste the cloth.

At the picture above I've also drawn the way all the parts should be put together. And that would be almost all... When sewing in the triangle skirt parts, it's better to begin from the top and go down from one side and then start over for the 2nd side. Don't worry when you'll see a lot of cloth at the bottom sticking below the edge of front or back body dress parts - it's expected and you'll just remove the extras later. You'll be probably able to sew a small bag out of them.

Stichtes. I've drawn my two favourite ones in the picture again, but I use them only for visible places, for example around edges or to decorate the visible parts of stitches around skirts. But when it comes to sew all the parts together, use whatever stich type you want and whatever you feel comfortable with - I don't recommend these two shown, as they take really a lot of time to make, especially the crossing one.

Viking woman by weavedmagicBlue and brown Viking dress by LaeradViking Embroidery by Erianrhodviking frouwe by cornum
Hervor new costume by VendelRus10th c. Norse Women's outfit by silverstahthe Viking by Narenlith

An easy wire-wrapping tutorial

Thu Dec 6, 2012, 1:10 AM
When it comes to making jewerly, especially silver, wire-wrapping technique is one of the nicest consider the availability and costs of the materials (it definitely beats Art Clay Silver at these points). But before you get silver wire and start making such fabulous pieces like the ones I've featured in the end, it's good to take your first steps using something cheaper - and here comes the copper wire - and making something simpler, to get used to this lovely technique.

This tutorial I originally posted on my blog a couple of months ago and I thought about sharing it also here.

6 by STelari
This is what we're planning to get.

First of all, we need stones - the more regular they are, the better. No need to think about any super duper expensive ones now (: I collected most of them in my garden, there are also parts of my old broken earrings and a small glass ball. We also need sharp pincers, round pincers and a wire, 0.6mm or thicker, 40cm at least. Copper wire is quite cheap and it suits this exercise well.

1 by STelari

Take the wire, leave behind about 4-5cm and round the stone with it, tightly. Leave the 4-5cm again and cut the whole part off, like in the picture below. Now you know what length  ou need, more or less 14-15 cm, depends on the stone. Use this piece of wire as a measure to cut more of them. Here I use 4, but it can be 2,3,5...

Gather them all together, find the middle and wrap the wire around, making the spiral not longer than 1cm. You don't need to cut off the wire before wrapping it, it would be a waste if you cut a too long piece.

2 by STelari 3 by STelari

Take the wires and wrap them around the stone, just like you did in the first step. Bend them to make a "neck" like in the picture below, twist them gently together as close to the stone as you can and save the connection with another spiral.

4 by STelari

Leave at least 2 wires to make the loop and do what you want with the rest - wrap them around, make swirls, spirals, there are many possibilites, as you could see in the first photo. Then, take at least one wire and bend it like in the picture - use either your fingers or the round pincers. Wrap around it the last free wires and save the ends of the loop, e.g. by swirling them, so it won't slip out. And that's it! Now you can make 15 such pendants and produce a whole necklase, if you add also some beads.

5 by STelari

And now, take a look at these brilliant wire-wrapping jewerly pieces.

Nasturtium 2 by BartoszCibad'Oro - bracelet by BartoszCibaBRANSOLETA 'GRANDISSIMA' by bizuteria-bizu4u
Paua bracelets by TriquetraZoneFishes... by PilaresABERDEEN by artpoppy
Wire earrings by YulienDeathWire-wrapped, large Swarovski necklace by AnnaMroczekAOROTH by LUNARIEEN